o For the light danforth style anchors, the opinion is unanimous for using around 5’ of chain. For the Sea Claw, most users have found that no chain is necessary.

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How can I keep my anchor from hanging up and getting stuck on the rocks?

o For a danforth style anchor, drill a hole in the opposite end of the shaft where you should connect the chain. Not in the shaft, but in one of the tabs on the end. Connect the chain to this hole with a shackle. So now you have the anchor basically hooked up backwards. Now put another shackle in the hole where you would attach the chain. Before you deploy the anchor, run the chain up to the forward shackle and secure with a zip tie. When it is time to pull the anchor and if it’s stuck, the zip tie will break and you can pull the anchor out backwards. There is less damage to bottom and less damage to your back. For a Sea Claw style anchor, the hole is already available.

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I hate hauling my anchor up from 50’ by hand. Other than installing an electric winch, is there an easier way that will save my back?

o T-H Marine has an Anchor Retrieving System as shown on the West Marine Website. Place the anchor ring over your anchor line, attach the anchor ball, lower the ball overboard, and run a slow course 30-45 degrees away from the anchor. This will move the ball down the anchor line to the anchor, pulling it free, and floating it to the surface.

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How do I keep water from coming into the baitwells of a 2005 MA 17? I have turned the valves off via the access hatch but I still get about 2” of water in both wells.

o Replace the Marelon valves with brass gate valves. Both of my Marelon valves "stuck" and wound up not being able to be closed all the way. When underway, I would pick up a few gallons of water.

o Skip from the Maverick Boat Company states “Water is coming back in through the drains. Plug the drain holes and the wells should stay dry.”

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I plan to use my trolling motor a lot when I go Tarpon fishing. What trolling motor and battery combination will give me the longest run time?

o If you must have long running time for chasing tarpon, then the ideal system would be a 36 volt trolling motor. If your only option is the 12 or 24 volt trolling motor, then go with the 24 volt system. Basically, the higher the voltage, the more efficient the trolling motor will be as it will consume less amps at a given speed.

o The next consideration is to obtain as much amp hour capacity as you can. If desired, you can connect 6 volt batteries in parallel and then in series to make the needed 36/24/12 volt system that you select. However, most marine setups utilize 12 volt batteries. You need be only constrained by weight and space.

o In order to extend your battery time while on the water, you might also want to go with quick rechargeable batteries. The AGMS, like Optima, Odyssey and Trojan combined with a DualPro Extreme Charger will allow you to quickly recharge from the outboard motor when on the water

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Why does Yamaha dislike Optima batteries? I spoke to a national Yamaha rep the other day about the Optima batteries and the guy gave me "double talk" without really saying "WHY”.

o Hamfisted states “There are no issues with the Lifeline AGM’s and the HPDIs or any other motor. I would imagine the Optimas and Odysseys are the same. I've found that some shops bad mouth the AGMs simply because they don't sell them. They like to push Interstates or some other brand because low and behold that's what they carry in stock. You can usually find all that information on the battery manufacturer's website just to be sure.”

o Yamaha is concerned with the AGMs, Optima in particular because of the low internal resistance of the battery. The battery is able to take a huge amount of Amps, pushing the Yamaha charging system such that Yamaha fears that the electronics required for motor operation may not be sufficiently powered. They can’t prove it and are vague in their response probably because they don’t want to incur a lawsuit.

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Is there any real concern over fumes from the battery being ignited by accessories or switches, etc. when batteries are located in the console?

o If you are using flooded cells, here are a few suggestions:

1. Leave the console door open when charging.
2. Never charge with a boat cover on the console or boat.
3. Unplug charger when you are going to fiddle with switches, etc.
4. If you smell something, be sure to air it out.

o Invest in Lifeline, Odyssey. Optima or Trojan AGM’s and quit worrying about it.

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How do I securely mount 2 batteries under the console?

o Mount a 3/8” starboard under the batteries for floor support and attach battery straps to it. Use ¼” SS screws with liberal amounts of GE 5200.

o Mike at Master Repair in Ft. Lauderdale, makes a nice box with sides.

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How do I set up my batteries for a 24 Volt trolling motor?

o Hobo replies “I drew up this simplified drawing of how you can wire your vessel to allow you to use one of your trolling motor batteries as an alternant general service battery.”

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What size battery should I buy for my F150 Yamaha?

o Boatiedawg from the Maverick Boat Company advises “For a 4-Stroke F150-F250, Yamaha recommends a minimum:

            Cold cranking amps 512
      Marine cranking amps 675
      Reserve capacity 182
Also take in consideration for the amps being drawn by your equipment. You can make a list of your components and their amps and tally them up. i.e. lights, radios, pumps etc.

o       Do your homework.
      Deka (610) 682-4231                          www.eastpenn-deka.com
      Crown (800) 487-2879                        www.crownbattery.com
      CSI/Dual Pro (800) 742-2740             www.dualpro.com
      LIFEline (626) 969-6886                     www.lifelinebatteries.com
      Interstate-888-772-3600                      www.interstatebatteries.com/cs_estore/
      Optima-888-8OPTIMA                       www.optimabatteries.com
      Rolls batteries (800) 487-0610             www.semarine.com

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Should I recharge my trolling motor batteries as soon as I return from fishing? Or should I wait until just prior to my next trip?

o Both. It's not good for them to sit discharged.

o From the Minn Kota Owner’s Manual: “Maintain batteries at full charge. Proper care will significantly improve the battery life. Failure to recharge lead-acid batteries (within 12-24 hours) is the leading cause of premature battery failure.”

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What is the proper way to utilize my battery selector switch? Do you keep it on 1, 2, or both? Do you change the switch setting throughout the day or alternate which one you use each time out?

o HOBO provides the following very thorough explanation:

A battery selector switch as applied in a bay or flats boat is a VERY useful tool that assures redundancy as well as "peace of mind" for the vessel's owner.

A high quality battery selector switch should have a sufficient capacity power rating to safely handle the 12vdc electrical power required. This switch MUST also have "bridged" internally sealed contacts allowing it to safely be switched from one battery to both batteries then to the second battery without any interruption of supplied 12vdc power.

The Blue Sea brand is my favorite based on personal experience. Quest and Cole Hersee also offer quality selector switches.

In my 24' Pathfinder TE, I use three East Penn series 31, AGM, Dual Purpose batteries, along with a Blue Sea Battery Selector Switch. Also part of my system includes a three bank Dual Pro PRO charger (15 amps per leg). This set up utilizes both a 12 vdc system for general cranking and accessory use as well as a 24 vdc system for the 80# Minn Kota trolling motor. This is a VERY efficient system. It’s one that uses one of the three batteries that is aligned both in parallel with the #1 Cranking Battery. Plus it is connected in series with the third battery to supply 24 vdc trolling motor power.

When I am NOT actively using this vessel, the battery selector switch is placed in the OFF position AND the Blue Sea trolling motor circuit-breaker/switch is also placed in the "tripped" or off position. The trolling motor is left in the un-plugged position. The only thing that is now capable of operation is the auto-bilge pump when the float switch is activated.

When I get ready to use this vessel, I turn the battery selector switch to either position #1 or position #2. Either one of these positions is capable of supplying both cranking as well as accessory 12 vdc power as required. I rotate between battery #1 and battery #2 usually on a "per trip" or daily basis, trying to use each of the batteries as much as the other.

If I know that I am going to be using my trolling motor a lot during a trip then I will select BATTERY #1 to keep from placing any undue drain on the BATTERY #2 which is the "swing" or battery that is used by both the 12 vdc as well as the 24 vdc systems.

With this Blue Sea Battery Selector Switch, it is perfectly okay to switch, on the go, from one battery to the other, just so long as you do not switch through the OFF position.

Your engine will provide charging power to whichever battery(s) the selector switch is assigned.

The ONLY times that I would ever place the battery selector switch in the BOTH position is:
(1) when I know that I am going to be making a relatively long run and want to provide charging current to both batteries #1 & #2 ate the same time.
(2) In the event that I try and crank the engine and the selected battery is so weak that the starter can not turn over the engine AND I then switch to the other battery and also find it to is too weak to start the engine. Under this condition by placing the selector switch in the BOTH position, you might possibly have enough "juice" in both of them to cumulatively crank the engine.

NEVER switch the battery to the BOTH position when you discover that one battery is "dead". Doing this will cause the "dead battery" to draw more current from the remaining charged battery than the starter itself would. Always switch to the opposite battery in the event of a dead battery before switching to BOTH batteries.

If the engine will not start in any of the battery selector switch positions, theN you might want to try the following procedure before calling Sea\\Tow:
(1) Remove the positive engine cable from the COMMON pole on the back of the battery selector switch.
(2)Place it on the positive post of the #3 battery (normally used only for the trolling motor).
(3) Remove the short NEGATIVE cable connecting the negative posts of batteries #1 and #2 together. Use this cable to connect the negative post of the #3 battery to the vessel's common ground system....

If using this "last chance" method for cranking the engine does indeed work, then immediately head for home. Do not attempt to re-hook up batteries #1 and #2.

NEVER use "jumper cables" to jump straight from battery #3 to either (or both) batteries #1 and #2. By attempting this, you will risk immediately "killing" battery #3 because, here again, the dead batteries will pull more current that the engine starter!!!

The 110 vac three bank charger is completely separate from the engine's 12 vdc charging system. Placing the battery selector switch in any position will not have any effect on this 110 vac charging system.

Keeping the batteries away from the bilge area reduces the probability of battery related problems by 75% or more. Even with the batteries mounted in the console one should still on a periodic basis remove, clean, then reinstall ALL the battery's terminal connections (at least once a year).

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Should I get an on-board or a portable charger? My knowledge regarding battery chargers is limited.

o An on-board charger is the only way to go. Give HOBO a shout. He is a DualPro dealer and should be able to take care of you

o I am very impressed with a ProTournament charger that I purchased from Odyssey Southeast. As with anything, you get what you pay for.

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Should you get a spark when you hook up the wires from the charger to the battery or into the outlet? Does that mean a bad charger?

o Hamfisted states “If the charger is unplugged from the AC outlet, you should not get a spark. When you are connecting to the battery, connect the red (positive) side first, then the black (ground) side. It shouldn't spark that way even if it is plugged in. Consider installing a DualPro charger and you won’t have to worry about it.

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Are there any specs for bilge pump placement? My 2001 17’ Maverick Master Angler seems to have a float problem. However, I am unable to locate the pump.

o Yes. You have discovered one of the (in my opinion) major design flaws in MHP boats. You will need a trained spider monkey to replace said pump. You can change it. But it won't be a lot of fun. This is one job to leave to the dealer.

o My previous 18.5’ Master Angler was also difficult to change out the bilge pump, bait well pump, etc. If I had kept it, I would have put in a larger rectangular hatch so I could get to the bilge pump, bait well pump, bait well plumbing, etc. more easily. That is not a real difficult task and is one that I think would be well worthwhile. Taking it to the dealer is going to cost more than it would cost to put in the larger hatch because they don't have trained monkeys either. Just people who get billed out by the hour.

o On my 2001 17’ Master Angler, a bigger access hole would only help marginally unless you have fingers like Arsenio Hall. The pump is seemingly underneath the bait well instead of being placed more aft. I'm sure there is a good reason. But the job still is a tough nut. I'd be interested to hear what the charge is for replacement.

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Why is my bilge pump running so often?

o You probably have a leak. Put the boat on the trailer and run a hose in the bilge to see where the water runs out. Check the bottom of the boat while on the trailer for any cracks or holes.

o Check all hoses and valves to see if there are any loose connections, cracks in hoses, etc.

o The inspection plate in the splash well often leaks. If you reverse hard or slow down quickly and take water into the splash well this could put a good bit of water into the bilge.

o Check the scuppers on the side of the console. Remove the chrome clamshell from the outside. Sometimes the PVC sleeve that is inside is slightly smaller and needs to be sealed with silicone around it. Upon reinstallation, seal the 3 screw holes that hold the clamshell in place.

o Another culprit could be the holes in the hull at the trim tabs where all those screws are mounted. Any other hole such as a transom mounted transducer or wires that run from it.

o On my LT20, the baitwell pump outlet pipe was cracked where the hose going to the livewell was attached with a hose clamp. I had minimal pressure to the livewell and water was in the bilge constantly. I just changed out the pump body and had no more problems. Those pumps are plastic and, I guess after ten years of use, the plastic gets brittle and cracks.

o Look at all connections where the hose clamps are put on to the livewell pumps. Sometimes they break when too much pressure is put on them by the clamp.

o Check all round the pumps themselves. Sometimes the pump housings will develop a tiny crack and will leak.

o Check around the tops of your livewells and all the drains. Sometimes, the sealants will have gone dry.

o Put a board on top of a floor jack and lift the stern of the boat. Then check your sea-chest sealant and screws, etc. Just be sure to properly secure the boat prior to fiddling with it on a trailer. E.g. blocks for the tires, etc.

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How is my automatic bilge pump wired?

o HOBO observes the following: The bilge pump commonly used in Maverick, Hewes, and Pathfinder boats has two modes of operation, manual and automatic. Each mode has its own wiring circuit complete with its own fuse. The manual mode fuse is located on the accessory fuse panel underneath the console. This circuit may be isolated by using the battery selector switch. The automatic mode is wired directly to the cranking battery and is not controlled by the battery selector switch. An in-line fuse (or circuit breaker) is usually located within a few feet of the battery. This set-up is the norm with most modern boat manufacturers.

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What is a good boarding ladder setup for my PF 2200V?

o ForgetettoRember offers this setup. It hooks into two keyhole type mounts. The dealer mounted it so that when you are climbing in the boat, you can grab the leaning post for extra balance.

o MikeH offers the following design. I love the fact that it is big enough to comfortably stand and/or sit on. I have found that I hardly use the ladder myself. It is easy for me to just put my hands on the platform and with a little kick of the feet hoist myself right onto the platform. My kids do the same thing. However, my eight year old sometimes likes to use the ladder. As far as releasing it when deboarding, we usually don't. But you can just depress the red button, which unlocks it from the stowed position, and then just telescope the ladder out. It was made by Gause Built Boats.

o Skip from the Maverick Boat Company offers and alternative design. It is popular when wade fishing the flats and you want to get back into the boat. Note that the ladder does not extend very deep into the water. Good for the flats but not when you are boarding from a dive site. Skip notes “I suggest you contact Danny Hubbell in Arnsas Pass, TX at 361-758-3334 as he makes a custom platform for the Pathfinder. I have one on my boat and it works well. Here at the plant, we use self tapping screws and 5200 to attach them on the port side.”

o Tarpon Terry installed a Poly Swim Platform W/O Ladder (West Marine Model Number 384588) and a separate Telescoping 3 Step Swim Ladder (West Marine Model Number 5497045) purchased from West Marine. Terry wanted a long ladder to better allow divers to get out of the water. The Telescoping Ladder lies flat on the top of the Swim Platform. He did have to make a cut out in the Swim Platform in order to allow free movement of the trim tab.

o Dino uses the following Gaerlick Boarding Ladder:

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What is the best way to clean my Boat Cover?

o You might consider what Sunbrella recommends.

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What is a fair price for a T-Top boat cover on a Pathfinder 2200V?

o South Carolina - $1,034

o Mobile AL - $1,500

o Largo, FL - $900 for a Pathfinder 2400V

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Does anybody know how to tighten a “pull up” cleat? One of mine is so loose that, in addition to not staying up when pulled up, it vibrates making a very annoying noise at cruising speed.

o Skip from the Maverick Boat Company reports “The type we use now are not adjustable. It should be somewhat loose but should stay up when engaged. While it depends on the location, a flush cleat cannot be changed out without cutting an inspection plate. We install all the standard cleats before the hull and deck are joined. Each one is through bolted on the underside of the deck. These are high quality pieces that with which we really never have any issues.”

o BOATIEDAWY from the Maverick Boat Company states: “Unfortunately these are all through bolted before decking the boat. The only cleat you will be able to work on with out cutting access holes is the one on the bow through the anchor locker. The cleats are set from the vendor and some cannot be adjusted at all. There are screws in each of the cleat rails which are used for tensioning. We do tighten these up but most are already as tight as they'll go. It may be a fact that the plastic around the rails themselves on this particular one was slightly larger than the others. Try putting a piece of neoprene cut out to fit into the recessed slot to stop the vibrations.”

o Here is the fix for the "Noisy-Cleat". Cut off about 1-1/2" of a small cable tie. Pull the cleat up. Put some good rubber cement on one of the flat inside posts. Stick the piece of cable tie on it. Block up the Cleat to dry. That’s it. Works great. The cleat now even stays up all own its own.

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How can I prevent the accumulation of rust on my boat and its parts?

o Hamfisted has posted an article from Powerboat Reports on “Corrosion Protection Coating Test.

ABSTRACT

How to prevent rust on boats has been one of the sailor’s most enduring challenges. For this test of anti-corrosion sprays and coatings, anything that had “rust” and any reference to “marine” or “boats” or “salt spray” was fair game. Paint was out. Our saltwater test, which involved full immersion of mild steel coupons, was admittedly harsh, and quickly produced results. After three days, most of the steel coupons were significantly rusty. Only three saltwater test panels showed no corrosion—those coated with CorrosionPro Lube, CRC Heavy Duty, and LPS 3.

Wouldn’t it be nice if you could have a rustproof boat? In search of our ideal anti-corrosion coating, we chose the products based largely on their advertised claims and also on how easy they were to find. Among the products we tested for corrosion prevention: West Marine CorrosionPro Lube, CRC Heavy Duty Corrosion Inhibitor, Corrosion Block, Boeshield T-9, WD-40, CorrosionX, Corrosion X HD, Shark Hide, LPS 1, LPS 2, LPS 3, and TC-11 all popped up during Internet searches. We left out products that made no specific claims for use in the marine environment.

THE TEST
Each of the test products was applied to two mild steel strips—one to be suspended in salt water and the other to be sprayed with fresh water. One of mankind’s greatest early achievements was the extraction of pure metal from rock. The process takes ingenuity and consumes vast amounts of energy. So it is with considerable frustration that we watch nature so easily reclaim what we have wrought at such cost. Few are more familiar with corrosion than mariners, who fight a constant battle against it in the salty interface between sea and sky.

A visit to the hardware store or a search on the Internet reveals no shortage of products to address, and even redress, corrosion—most are touted as being able to penetrate ("frees rusted parts"), lubricate, or protect electrical components. Here we examine the corrosion-inhibiting properties.

What We Tested
We chose the products based largely on their advertised claims and also on how easy they were to find. Several are available in hardware stores. West Marine carries its private-label product, CorrosionPro Lube, as well as CRC Heavy Duty Corrosion Inhibitor, Corrosion Block, Boeshield T-9, and WD-40. CorrosionX, Shark Hide, the LPS products, and TC-11 all popped up during Internet searches. We left out products that made no specific claims for use in the marine environment. Anything that had "rust" and any reference to "marine" or "boats" or "salt spray" was fair game.

Twelve made the roster: PMS Products’ Boeshield T-9; LPS Laboratories’ LPS 1, LPS 2, and LPS 3; Corrosion Technologies Corp.’s CorrosionX and CorrosionX HD; ICC Industries’ TC-11; Lear Chemical Research Corp.’s Corrosion Block; West Marine’s CorrosionPro Lube; CRC Heavy Duty; Shark Hide; and WD-40, because it was already in the workshop.

Each showed different degrees of viscosity, all went on wet, and most stayed wet, or at least tacky. Those that left a waxy coating, performed the best in the saltwater test.

None is pleasant to use and all of their containers carry stern warnings about flammability, use in poorly ventilated areas, and against inhaling them. Most use heavier-than-air butane, pentane, or heptane, or a mixture thereof, as propellants, which means there’s a risk of an explosive mixture accumulating in confined spaces, such as bilge compartments. Ventilate these areas thoroughly before operating anything that might create a spark.

The LPS products use carbon dioxide as propellant, and Corrosion Block nitrogen, but the solvents are still flammable.

Boeshield T-9
According to its maker, Boeshield T-9 spray is for penetration, moisture displacement, lubrication, and rust and corrosion protection. It’s relatively heavy and dries slightly tacky. The T-9-coated strip sprayed with fresh water was rust-free after a week. The one submerged in salt water had rust around the screw and at the top after three days. The trend continued through eight days, with more corrosion on the cured side (see sidebar above) than on the uncured side.

Bottom Line: In terms of what our test covered, T-9 works as advertised, even in salt water. Slightly more corrosion at the screw and price edged it out of the top three.

Corrosion Block
Advertised as a corrosion preventer and inhibitor, Corrosion Block is a heavy, blue spray that dries thin, clear, and slightly tacky. After seven days of freshwater dousing, the Corrosion Block coated strip showed some rust spots at the top, where we’d expected a thicker coating. The saltwater strip, however, was very rusty after three days except for an area toward the top. After eight days, it had rust all over it.

Bottom Line: Corrosion Block is OK for freshwater purposes, but not salt water. To be fair, the manufacturer makes no claim regarding rust.

CorrosionPro Lube -West Marine
West Marine claims its product offers "...excellent water resistance and superior rust and corrosive preventative characteristics." And it does. This fine spray leaves a visible, amber-colored, waxy coating. The coating remained intact through a week of freshwater dousing, and the metal strip showed no signs of rust. The saltwater strip saw similar success: The coating remained after three days, and there were no signs of rust. It was only after eight days of saltwater abuse that some rust appeared along the "uncured" edge.

Bottom Line: This product does what it claims. The waxy film isn’t pleasant to the touch, but for hard-to-reach parts, it’s on the money.

CorrosionX
This aerosol, which maker’s claim provides protection against rust and corrosion, initially forms a foamy, blue-green film. The bubbles eventually disappear. CorrosionX’s freshwater performance was excellent: After seven days, there was no rust and the film was still tacky. (So sticky, in fact, that a few small flies met their end on the metal strip.) Unfortunately, its saltwater efficacy rated at the other end of the spectrum. After eight days, except for a band at the top, the metal strip was very rusty, and particularly corroded around screw.

Bottom Line: CorrosionX works fine in a freshwater environment, but it’s not ready for brine time, especially in a mixed-metal situation.

CorrosionX HD
Think of this as CorrosionX’s big brother: A "high-performance, thick film version of CorrosionX," according to Corrosion Technologies Corp. It comes out as a fine spray with some bubbles and a thick, amber color.

The CorrosionX HD saltwater panel (right), like several other test panels, had more rust on its bottom half than its top half, and oddly, it had less rust on its “uncured” side. Like its sibling, we rated it Excellent in the freshwater test, but wasn’t up to the challenge of salt water. The strip in saltwater had a rusty bottom half and a less-rusty top half, almost in proportion to the thickness of its coating. A clear halo appeared where the product accumulated around the nut, and curiously, less corrosion formed on the "uncured" side.

Bottom Line: The sticky film does resist freshwater penetration, but it isn’t immune to salt water, especially for the long term.

CRC HD Corrosion Inhibitor
CRC Heavy-Duty Corrosion Inhibitor, which is seemingly identical in appearance and performance to CorrosionPro Lube, is made for saltwater use. It claims to protect and preserve metal surfaces subject to salt spray and high humidity. It comes out as a fine spray with a thick coating. The freshwater test strip still had a sufficient coating and no rust after seven days. It was equally impressive in the saltwater test: coating intact and no rust after eight days.

Bottom Line: Excellent performance. It lives up to its claims. (Bass Pro, Ace Hardware, Boaters World, West Marine...)

LPS 1
LPS Labs offers three products with three levels of rust protection. LPS 1 is marketed as a greaseless lubricant that displaces moisture. Colorless, it has a broad spray range. In the freshwater test, the LPS 1 panel only had some rust on the uncured side after a week. After three days in salt water, the strip was very rusty, except at the top, and by Day 8, it had rusted all over. The brass screw also showed signs of rust, as though iron were being transported to its surface by galvanic action, there to repeat its demise (just a guess).

Bottom Line: LPS literature says the product displaces moisture on electronic components and that its light, greaseless film inhibits corrosion. It doesn’t claim to prevent rust, but it works for fresh water, if given time to cure. The broad spray pattern made it difficult to concentrate the product where it was wanted.

LPS 2
LPS 2 is touted as a multi-purpose lubricant and penetrant with added corrosion protection. It’s a colorless, fine spray with a strong almond odor and broad spray pattern. The freshwater LPS 2 panel had no rust after three days, but some after seven days; more on the "uncured" side. After three days, the saltwater test strip exhibited extensive rusting, and after eight days, it was completely corroded.

Bottom Line: LPS 2 claims to provide protection indoors for a year, and its performance indicates that as its limit. Not useful in salt water.

LPS 3
The strongest of the LPS series, LPS 3 claims to be a long-term, heavy-duty rust inhibitor, even in the harshest environment. Its bubbly, thick spray forms a waxy, pale brown coating. After a week of freshwater exposure, there was no sign of rust and the coating was still tacky. And even after eight days of saltwater torture, the LPS 3 panel showed no sign of rust and it was still very sticky.

Bottom Line: We tested it under "harsh conditions," and it does what it claims—but it’s not pretty.

Shark Hide
Shark Hide claims to be a protective coating against weathering and salt spray. Marketed mainly to owners of aluminum pontoon boats and similar craft, it lists steel among the surfaces it can be used on. Unlike the other test products, Shark Hide is a thin, colorless liquid—not an aerosol—that wipes on with soft cloth. It’s a thin liquid, and has really nasty solvents (toluene and xylene)—so be sure to apply it in the open air and wear gloves. The freshwater test strip showed rust spots on the "uncured" side after three days. But there was no rust on the cured side, even after a week. The saltwater panel’s uncured side was rather rusty after three days, but the other side had only mottled rust. Even after eight days, the coupon wasn’t completely rusted.

Bottom Line: Shark’s Hide works well in fresh water when allowed to cure. And it performed better than expected (Fair) in salt water for having such an invisible coating. It’s easy to apply to large, smooth surfaces, less so to small parts like nuts and bolts.

TC-11
TC-11 is the "complete answer for rust control," according to its maker. The bubbly, blue-green spray forms a thick coating that was still sticky after a week of freshwater exposure. It kept the freshwater panel rust-free after seven days. The saltwater panel did not fare as well: After three days, it had extensive rusting, and after eight days, only the very top was rust-free.

Bottom Line: This product isn’t the silver bullet—but it works in fresh water.

WD-40
Nearly as ubiquitous as duct tape, WD-40 claims to protect against rust and corrosion. Although the fine, colorless spray’s coating was dry after a week of freshwater sprays, the panel had no rust. However, after three days in salt water, the metal strip was completely rusted, except the top. After eight days, only the very top was showing resistance.

Bottom Line: Works well in fresh water—and makes no greater claims.

CONCLUSIONS
Our saltwater test is admittedly harsh, and quickly produced results. After three days, most of the steel coupons were significantly rusty. Only three saltwater test panels showed no corrosion—those coated with CorrosionPro Lube, CRC Heavy Duty, and LPS-3. Of the remainder, the Boeshield T-9 panel showed the least corrosion, followed by the cured Shark Hide. (The cured vs. non-cured results support the notion that it pays to follow instructions. Most non-cured sides mimicked the control panel.) In the freshwater test, the Shark Hide remained rust free. It might be the answer for stainless steel rigging, stern rails, etc., because it leaves no sticky residue—however, it’s an expensive solution. At 63¢ per ounce, CRC gets the Budget Buy nod. For day-to-day use, loosening sticky mechanical parts, or softening greasy deposits, WD-40 works and is inexpensive.

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How do I install a shoot-through-the-hull transducer?

o HOBO has the following procedure:

1. Determine where you will be mounting your transducer. In Pathfinders, I usually mount the shoot-through-the-hull transducers just a few inches to the starboard side of the bilge pump.

2. Make sure the area to be used is cleaned thoroughly using acetone.

3. Use a high speed air 3" sanding disc and remove the oyster-white layer of gel coat exposing about a 3 to 4 inch circle of raw glass. However, this is really not a necessity. Just roughing up the area with sandpaper will work.

4. Using some 5-minute, 2-part epoxy glue a two inch long section of 4" PVC pipe down to the prepared area. This creates a "pool" in which the transducer will be mounted.

5. Using some rather rough (50-80 grit) sand-paper, rough up the bottom surface and all sides of the transducer.

6. Mix up about a half-pint of regular fiberglass resin with the appropriate amount of the MEK hardener. You can readily purchase this resin/hardener in quart containers from Boater's World, West Marine, etc.

7. Pour about half of the mixed resin directly into the 4" PVC pipe glued to the floor. Next dip the transducer into the remaining resin wetting the bottom and all sides thoroughly. Place the wetted transducer into the pool of resin. It is more dense than the resin therefore it will not float but will sink to the bottom. Pour the remaining resin onto the upper part of the transducer.

8. Using scissors, cut up into small pieces of fiberglass cloth and sprinkle on to the top of the still liquid glass. This strengthens the glass and prevents it from forming cracks when it hardens.

9. When the Resin sets up, the transducer will actually become part of the hull. Any bubbles held in suspension and formed when mixing or pouring this resin will easily float to the top and disappear. The disadvantage of using Marine-Tex or two-part epoxies is that they are much thicker and denser. Thus, you run the risk of a bubble of air being captured between the transducer and the floor thereby distorting the sonar signal which results in inaccurate readings.

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Where are some good places to Bonefish in the Bahamas?

o Rdfish1 mentions that a couple of folks have suggested Pat Roberts at Sandy Point and staying at Pete/Gays guesthouse. But I don't know if that's because the fishing and accommodations are great or because it's more convenient for commercial flights into Marsh Harbor.

o Skip from the Maverick Boat Company suggests Andros would be a better choice than Marsh Harbor although you have more accommodation choices in Marsh Harbor. There is a flight everyday out of Lauderdale to Andros and there are quite a few lodges from which to choose. I have been to a few. Take a look at Stafford Creek Lodge owned and run by Prescott Smith. Another place you might want to check out is Deep Water Cay on Grand Bahama. It's easy to get there. Fishing is good. You can have great at times as long as you tell the guide that you do not want to fish schooling fish and it's a decent place to stay. Nothing fancy. The food is decent and they have nice decent equipment.

o BONES13 advises that you can't go wrong with the Abaco's and then once there, you can always take the ferry across to Green Turtle where I know there is a charter captain that runs an older Hewes. If you're looking for big bones, stick to Biscayne Bay and or the Keys. The Bahamas has an abundance of bonefish, but nowhere near as big as we do here.

o Corey notes that I have fished Andros seven or eight times over the past dozen years, always at Andros Island Bonefish Club. Andros has variety within the bonefish category. Tell your guide you want to catch fish, and he'll make sure you do, though they might be small. Tell him you want to catch big fish, and he'll show you some. Catching them is up to you. Andros offers good ocean-side wading if that's what you like, and a huge variety of reasonably protected lagoons, lakes, sloughs and what have you back in the bites. If your primary interest is bone fishing and you're not interested in nightlife, Andros Island Bonefish Club is a good choice. The accommodations are adequate. The food is pretty good. The atmosphere is very relaxed. You can book your stay through many of the fishing outfitters, but lately we've been simply booking directly. If you decide to do that, just call Juliet Newbold at the Club at (242) 368-5167. There are a number of other lodges on Andros, too. And of course, there's good fishing on many of the other islands. A little research on the Internet will provide you with a lot of information. Continental Airlines now has direct flights from FLL to Andros Town/Fresh Creek on the north part of the island. You can also get to the island, and other airports further south, on Bahamasair and some other scheduled carriers out of Nassau, and of course, you can charter. We used to charter with an outfit that serves one of the dive resorts, but the last time we did, the pilot, Alex Blackwell, decided at the last minute that he wasn't going to fly us back to the states. We were lucky there were seats on the Continental flight. We'll be taking Continental again next month.

o Larry Albright states you can't go wrong with Patrick at Sandy Point. Pete and Gay is comfortable with way too much food. Lots of varied fishing. We've been going there for 13 years. You'll also find the cost more reasonable than Andros. Especially at Prescott's place.

o Conocean mentions in my opinion, you can toss a coin for Andros versus Marsh Harbor. I'm in Marsh Harbor 2-3 times a year for business. Most of the fish you'll find in both areas are small to medium size. The bigger ones are smart! You also might want to consider Harbour Island in Eleuthera. It tends to have less charter traffic than most islands and there are plenty of nice places to stay. 9lb+ bonefish are very abundant. I fish with Captain Patrick Roberts over there (242.333.3014) but Bonefish Jermaine (242.333.3205) is good too! I'm actually fishing two days with Patrick next month. He's one of the few guides in the islands that enjoys fishing for 12 hours straight!!

o Osseous advises that Larry's post above is right on the money. I may be biased as I introduced Larry and his wife to Sandy Point all those years ago, coaxing him away from AIBC. I've been to many lodges throughout the Bahamas so I think I can give you some further guidelines that may be helpful. Andros and Grand Bahama are going to have the very largest bones in the Bahamas. You will find some 10 lb plus fish there. Sandy Point itself (not the same thing as Marsh Harbor AT ALL!) holds some very large fish on the town flats. The run to Mores Island is an easy one in Patrick's 20' Action Craft. Now you're in the land of the giants! I saw the largest Bone of my life there. Ricardo, owner of Rickmon Lodge in Sandy Point and Patrick's cousin, estimated it at 17 or 18 lb. The man knows his bonefish! A good day at Mores should bring an 8 lb fish. Larry's gotten several that size over the years and larger. I landed one last year that weighed 8 lbs on the Boca, and another on the same day that a shark sliced in two was 7 even with a giant hole in its belly. I had bigger fish there take me over the edge of a channel and cut me off on the coral. The sheer number of fish at Sandy Point is good, and the opportunity for large bones is unavoidable. The lodging is "Keysie", but clean and quite comfortable. They go out of their way to look after you, but on occasion, it helps to make your wishes known, rather than stewing over something that you might consider obvious. It's just a culture thing. Believe me, they want you to enjoy yourself and to return again and again. As you head south from Andros to Exuma, Eleuthera, Long Island, Crooked, Acklins and then on down the chain, including the islands of the Turks and Caicos, you're usually going to find more fish, but they're smaller on average. They're not always pushovers, mind you, but they definitely decline in average size as you get south of Andros and Sandy Point. The Permit on the other hand....

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What is the make and model of the toggle switch for my bilge pump and where can I find it? I have no power going to my bilge pump and/or courtesy lights via my toggle switch. I know the pump works, because I can manually turn on the bilge pump via the float switch.

o The pump’s power comes directly from the battery and has a separate fuse. Check the fuse that supplies your toggle switch.

o To rule out the toggle switch, swap it out with another one from your panel.

o Check with Ken at Flounder Pounder Marine in Cape Canaveral. The website is http://www.fpmarine.com/ He carries a lot of M/H/P products.

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Where do the wires attached to the ACC switches lead? All of the terminals on my electrical panel rocker switches already have wires attached to them (even the unused ACC switches.

o       BOATIEDAWG from the Maverick Boat Company states “Here is a run down on your ACC switches and the color of the wires. Again, this is for just your ACC wires.
      LW 1 ACC (red/white) is for #1 LW Recirc pump
      LW 2 ACC (red/yellow) is for #2 LW Recirc pump
      Bilge ACC (brn/grn) is for a Salt water wash down
      ACC/ACC (brn/blk) is for Fresh water wash down
                     (blu/wht) is for LW lights
      Horn ACC (blu/red) is for Courtesy lights

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How do I add Courtesy Lights to my 2001 2200V?

o HOBO offers the following advice.

It’s a really simple job.

The back of all the "lighted single pole, double throw, ON-OFF-ON rocker switches are already wired "hot" to the accessory fuse panel. This translates to:

A black wire (ground wire for the light inside the switch) will be attached to a single pole on the left-top of the back side of the switch.
A colored wire is leading from a fused terminal of the accessory fuse panel with the other end connected to the center pole on the back of the switch. This makes the switch "hot" and ready to connect to an accessory item.
The terminal poles above and below this center pole may or may not have wires attached. If no wires are attached to either the pole above or below this center pole then you may attach the positive lead from your courtesy sights to either one of these poles.
The black wires from your courtesy lights must be connected to a negative terminal on the fused panel, battery, etc.

NOTE: LED lights are polarity sensitive and MUST be wired positive to positive and negative to negative.

If both the upper and lower poles of the rocker switch already have wires attached, then turn the switch "On" in both directions and see if anything in your boat "turns on" or begins to operate. If nothing "turns on", then remove the wire from the corresponding terminal on the back of the switch and attach your courtesy light’s positive leads. NOTE: When you push on the upper switch position on these rocker switches the BOTTOM terminal pole on the back of the switch is being energized. Push on the lower switch position and the TOP terminal pole on the back of the switch is being energized.

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How do you add additional pumps to the switch panel?

o HOBO replies “All the M/H/P boats come with their switch-panels pre-wired. The rocker-switches themselves are wired to be "hot", regardless if anything is hooked up to the "down-stream" side of the switch or not. This means that if you want to hook up a second live well, horn, whistle, light, radio, or anything else that is 12vdc, all you have to do is connect the positive wire from that appliance to one of the outer empty spade lugs on the back of the rocker-switch and connect the appliance's black wire to any negative ground source. You will then be in business. You will, of course, have to install the correct size fuse.

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Are there any pictures or is there a chart showing what fuse runs which circuit?

o Boatiedawg from the Maverick Boat Company advises, “These are our color combinations and should be the same for earlier models. When you trace these to the proper device, leave it running and pull the fuse to see if it cuts off. Then you are sure of the connection.”

brown - bilge
brown/white - LW 1
Brown/orange - LW2
brown/blue - if there is an accessory
gray - stern light or running lights
gray/white - running lights or stern
blue/black - courtesy lights

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How do I feed a new wire from the console to the bilge? There is no string available.

o Skip from the Maverick Boat Company suggests, “If available, use a plumbers snake and grease it well. As you have found, it's a tight squeeze. You will see where the console wire bundle goes into the tube. The tube is a piece of PVC that is built into the top portion of the stringer.”

o Hamfisted advises, “I always have better luck going from the bilge end toward the console, rather than starting at the console end. I use a round nylon fish tape from Home Depot. Spray silicone on it if it seems to get stuck. But it will usually slide right through.

o Try some dish soap. Hopefully, it is just hitting a small obstruction. For the worst-case scenario, if absolutely nothing else works, pick a wire, preferably the ground from the battery to accessory fuse tray. Cut it and tie on a string and then pull it through. You will need to run a new ground wire to replace the one you just cut. Finally, be sure to leave 2 pull strings in the rigging tube. Tie the ends off to something secure at each exit.

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Is there a color code standard for wiring in marine electrical applications?

o Apparently not, but here is a link to a Boston Whaler web site that shows their wiring standards as well as standards for Evinrude, Johnson, Mercury, Mariner, Yamaha and Honda. Marine Wiring Codes

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What are the Pros and Cons of using Ethanol fuel in marine motors?

o It takes more ethanol to produce the same amount of energy as gasoline. If using straight ethanol as opposed to straight gasoline to get the same energy you have to burn more volume. On alcohol fueled cars (racing) they dump more fuel into the engine to get the same horsepower. Ethanol is not better or cheaper. It's just something that is available and burns cleaner. Ethanol has many disadvantages over gas as a fuel.

o Since ethanol has only 2/3 the energy content of gasoline, you should only see about a 3% reduction in MPG (1/3 times 10% ) using E10. Brazil burns more ethanol than gasoline. They make it from sugar cane which, is more efficient than making it from corn. Right now, the USA should be planting sugar cane on every unused square foot of ground on the Gulf Coast. But, of course, politics are in play with the corn lobby being very strong in this country.

o The introduction of ethanol has nothing to do with delivering a more economical fuel source. Producing ethanol is more expensive than producing raw gasoline.

o Ethanol is an oxygenate. It is the current "go-to" replacement for MTBE (methyl tertiary butyl ether), also an oxygenate. Unfortunately, MTBE is not environmentally friendly. It is not bio-degradable. On several occasions, it has leaked out of underground tanks and contaminated water supplies. Ethanol blended fuel was never intended to be cheaper or better performing than MTBE blended fuel. But the refiners had to go to another oxygenate. There are others, but ethanol is the choice right now. Bio-butanol is a much better choice, but it is not readily available).

o Ethanol is a good oxygenate and octane booster - but is has several bad points. Take a look at this link from Boat US called “A Corny Solution”.

o Skip from the Maverick Boat Company states “We received this Bulletin from Yamaha regarding Ethanol.

o A Corporate Chevron Rep told me that, at this time, there are no plans to introduce Ethanol to their gasoline in Florida at this time. If you’re worried about using it in your motors, then use Chevron for now

o They sell it in Harris County (Houston, TX) and the surrounding adjoining counties. But we don't have it in my home town of Brenham, TX.

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How do I make a marker to mark my fishing spots?

o Hobo offers the following:

I have found the best "Spot Marker" to be a Gator-Aid or Power-Aid bottle. The reason for the Gator-Aid or Power-Aid plastic bottles is two-fold. First off, they both have a groove around the bottle making it easy to roll-up and store line. Second, they make one size that is right at three inches in diameter. This is the one you want because it makes it easy to keep up with how much line you have attached. Every five (5) wraps of line equals about four (4) feet. If I am fishing a wreck that is 12 feet deep I will put about 17 wraps (about 14 feet) of 10-15 pound test mono along with a 12-16 oz bank sinker and I am in business. This rig costs almost nothing. It takes up little space, is made very quickly and it is expendable. If you lose it you haven't lost very much. Also, by using the smaller pound-test mono (which I purchase in 1/4# spools from Wal-Mart for $0.99) if a fish wraps the buoy-line most often you will lose the buoy and not the fish.

I always keep Gator Aid on board. A 1/4# spool of 10-15# test line is stored in my leaning post, a half-dozen or so 12-16 oz bank-sinkers are always kept in my tackle supply box under the console.

I usually keep 2-3 of these marker buoys already made up with varying lengths and ready to deploy with only the need to attach the weight. I tie a large loop in the "sinker-end" of the 10-15# mono, To the end of this loop, I tie a large 1/4" x 3 rubber band with a half hitch. This rubber band is used to pull over and secure the line to the bottle once it is rolled up onto the groove. This same rubber band can be used to attach the weight when the bottle is going to be used or the weight can be attached directly to the 10-15# line. Either way, a half-hitch is used for easy disassembly. I only wrap enough line as needed for whichever wreck I am fishing depending upon the depth.

About 50% of the time, you can figure to lose the weight to the wreck upon retrieval. No big deal. Just roll up what's left. Put a large loop knot (about a foot in diameter) in the end. Install a rubber-band and secure the line into the bottle groove. Throw it into the leaning post storage box and don't worry about it until the next trip.

You can easily rig one of these "semi-expendable" marker buoys in about two minutes at almost "zero" cost except for the bank-sinker.

Years ago, I used to use the big long-line type floats and would wrap a 100 feet or so of 1/4" nylon cord attached to a 3-5 pound window-weight. Two to three of these took up a lot of room in the boat, cost a lot more, and were too easy to spot by passing boats. So I went with something smaller, cheaper and would mark a wreck just as good. Plus it was disguised as a piece of trash from someone's boat.

o These Buoy Markers work well also. Only the amount needed to get the weight to the bottom comes off of the block. You do run the risk of losing the weight to rocks or wreck debris.

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Is there a good landing net that will fit on my flats boat? I don’t have much space for a big one.

o Doc Holiday recommends:

I found out quickly that there is no room on a flats boat for a normal landing net. I never liked where it was since it was always in the way and caught on hooks and people. I found a fold up net that works great and stores under the gunnels or in rod holders. It is called the Hibernet #52 and it works awesome. It’s made out of aluminum on the handle and there is nothing to rust. The net is big and strong and allows you to dip any big Snook etc. The best part is having it stowed away until you need it and it slides open quickly and easily.

o I got mine at my local tackle shop for $69.99. Here is a place on line. http://www.anglersarsenal.com/productCat57532.ctlg

o I've had one for at least 2 or 3 years. Still works great. The only problems I had are:
1)" Occasionally" the net doesn't fold the way it's supposed to, but only when putting it away, never when you are in a hurry opening it. It only takes a few seconds to fix it and stow it away.
2) At the base, where the net opens, there are 2 small prongs that bring the net together to fold it and holds it in place when opened. Once, one of them came out of it's hole. Later I was able to fix it with just a couple of blows of a hammer and it never happened again.
3) It may be difficult to open by a woman or a child since it takes some strength to push the net out and back inside the handle. Patty opens it fine, but I may have to listen to her use some 4 lettered words in the process, since it's always in a hurry that you need it.
4) 99 % of the time it is just fine but for the occasionally larger fish but it isn't as big and deep as I would like it.

I'm really being "very picky" with these negative comments but am just passing on the experience. The positives outweigh this list above by a ton and if I ever lose it or gets lost ( because it won't break unless I try to fit in a 4 feet tarpon or shark) I would get another one!!! It's very light, never rusts, sturdy. It stows neatly behind my legs under the seat (not inside) kept in place with a couple of rubber holders. Even the netting has been resistant to my abuse and treble hooks.

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What is the best way to remove a hook imbedded in my skin?

o This is a link to how to remove an embedded hook. Hook Removal Procedure

o Here is a link that includes the snatch method along with some alternative methods. Hook Removal Methods The "snatch" method works incredible well, I've had to use it twice on myself with fairly deeply embedded treble hooks. Most recently last week, when I had one treble hook in my hand the other side of the plug hooked to a thrashing ladyfish! One thing I've learned from this latest experience is the need to start carrying a pair of side cutters on the boat. Being able to cut the hook away from a plug quickly or removing the other barbs of a treble hook would be real nice. Both times I've had to do this I've thought "Man, there's just NO WAY this is going to work without yanking out a chunk of flesh" yet it works slick as you please with minimal wounding and pain.

o The snatch method really works well. I've used it on a friend who had one treble hook in a redfish and the other in his hand. The side cutters quickly separated the two, then the snatch method removed the hook from my friend. At least it did on the second attempt. That was the time I learned how important it is to hold the hook shank down with one hand while jerking with the other to keep the hook coming straight out. I didn't do it right the first time, and it took us each three beers to get our courage up to try it again. Shortly after that lesson, I had the opportunity to remove one from my wife's hand. This time it went perfectly. I just cut a piece off the butt section of a leader, told TJ to look the other way, held the hook shank with one hand and popped the fly out with the other. By the way, we mash down the barbs on all our hooks, even the treble hooks on lures. It makes extraction from human body parts even easier that way and doesn't seem to result in a lot of lost fish. I encourage everyone to become familiar with the technique. It's easy and it can save a fishing day.

o I've heard that this technique will not work with circle hooks though. I think it was Rick Murphy who gave the following advice. If you do get stuck past the barb with a circle hook, you have two choices. One, push it through and cut the hook, or two, pull up your pantyhose and go to the ER.

o That technique works so well, it's hard to believe. I've used it a number of times. Once, on myself, with a 1/0 fly hook, but haven't yet needed to go after a treble hook. In anticipation of when the treble hook need might arise, I carry some heavy diagonal cutting pliers on my boat to cut off the other two hook points before "snatching" out the buried point. With luck, the need will never arise.

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What boats/trailers are able to be stored in the garage?

o Skiffin16 has a Hewes 17’-2” Tailfisher on an Ameratrail Trailer with a Yamaha T60 motor. Using no swing/removable tongue, he is able to store it in a 20’ deep garage. The total length of the boat, motor and trailer is 20’-11”. He stores it at a slight angle with the tongue tucked into the corner.

o TimD states that his Maverick Mirage 16’-9” HPX V on a Float On trailer with a swing away tongue and a Yamaha 90 motor will fit in his 19’-10” garage with 10” to spare.

o Poleposition advises that his Maverick 18’6” Master Angler on an Ameratrail ZT trailer with a Yamaha F150 motor fits straight in with the motor hard to port in his garage measuring 20’-3”. He states he has about and inch to spare. The following is a picture of his swing tongue.

o Bay-wolf notes that he has a PF 2000 that just fits in a 22'6" garage. It sits on an Ameratrail trailer with a swing tongue. Total length with the tongue swung is 22'3". It is tight. It couldn't have planned any better.

o Pointman has a 2007 Maverick HPX-V, Yamaha F90, factory poling platform, sitting on an Ameratrail trailer with Goodyear 205R75 x 14 tires on alloy wheels equipped with a Zero Tolerance fold-back trailer tongue. His garage depth: 21’-2”. The overall boat length including the bow mounted trolling motor with the trailer tongue folded back is 20'-2". The motor is trimmed slightly up. It could be shorter if trimmed straight down. The part of the package that protrudes closest to the front door is the trolling motor prop. From the floor of the garage to the top of the poling platform is 76.5”. It clears the upper limits of the garage/door by about one inch. If he doesn’t fold down the anchor light, it will break when backing into the garage. He just finished replacing one today. The Zero Tolerance trailer makes it possible to keep the boat in the garage instead of under a cover on an open storage lot. It's easily the best trailer he has ever owned.

o Dphorvath reports that his 2005 16’ Redfisher with a F-90 Yamaha on a trailer with a removable tongue has a total length of 18’-8” including a trolling motor overhang of about 4”. The rig fits straight in his garage with a depth of 18’-10”. He also has a hinged poling platform that folds down. The garage door height is 7’-1” with the platform (extended) rising to 7’-2” not including the pole cat push pole holder. He advises that everything works great provided that he remembers to fold the platform down when pulling her out of the garage at 4am.

o DonE offers the following advice:

When some of you noticed the tight fit of my boat in the garage, I thought I would share the full view with you. The boat would fit in the garage on an angle with no problem but the car had to stay outside. With the hurricanes two years ago, we were lucky with no direct hit but we got lots of wind and debris flying around and I wanted to put both my boat and car in the garage. I was told by numerous shops and my salesmen that Magic Tilt did not make a hingeable tongue for my trailer. I finally emailed Magic Tilt on a Friday night in September and on Monday I had an answer with part numbers and availability all thanks to Louis Schafer at Magic Tilt. Within a week, I had the hingeable tongue installed and then Hurricane Jeanne passed by real close the next day!

For the measurements, the garage is 20 x 19 and I needed the following to get the boat (16.5 Hewes Redfisher) in the garage.
18 feet for the boat and motor
18 feet 8 inches for the boat, motor and hingeable tongue
19 feet clearance for the door.

So I had four inches to spare!! I back the boat into the garage about two thirds of the way, put the motor full down and then manually position it to markers placed on the floor. I also have a work bench and my kayak in the garage and have about 12 inches on the side to get in and out near the kayak. I almost never hit my shins on the trailer fenders as I carry stuff into the house. For the car, of course any passengers have to exit before I pull in, and sometimes when I am in a hurry, it is a squeeze to get out of the car. One more reason to watch my weight!

I really enjoy having the boat with me. As you guys post items on the forum many times I just go downstairs and compare and see if mine works the same way. Here is a picture.

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Why does the fuel gauge on my 2005 F115 RF16 only show the bottom LED flashing even after a fill up? I have checked the dip switches on the gauge and they all appear correct according to the manual. What do I start checking next?

o Skip from the Maverick Boat Company states “I would first check your ground wire on the tank. Go through the console inspection plate. You should see a pink wire attached to the tank.”

o Hamfisted states “When you find that pink wire on the sending unit, short it out with the ground wire. With the key ON, check to see if the gauge shows FULL. If it does, then your sending unit in the tank is bad. Also, just check for obvious corrosion on the contacts. If there, clean it off. If you need a new sending unit. I would recommend the Centroid electronic units which you can buy on line.

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How do I install a new set of Yamaha Digital Multifunction gauges?

o       Skip from the Maverick Boat Company states “We get quite a few questions regarding the installations of the Yamaha Gauges. Thanks to Mike here you go.”
      Yamaha Multi Function Gauge
      Yamaha Multi Function Gauge Kit Installation

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Where do I purchase the correct color of Gelcoat for my hull?

o Skip from the Maverick Boat Company states “You can purchase gelcoat here; www.minicraft.com”

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Why does my GPS blink off sometimes when starting up the motor? It doesn’t do it every time though.

o HOBO states “This is because of voltage drop when the starter in engaged. It could be caused by several factors including but not limited to (1) Battery not being fully charged, (2) poor contact at the terminal connections of the GPS unit, (3) the accessory fuse panel 12VDC supply wire (cable) being too small. I like to use 8-gauge wire for this feed.”

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Why does my 1996 18’ Redfisher with a 130 HP seem like its squatting too much? Is it normal on these boats?

o It’s designed that way. The front V of my boat hits bottom before I start dragging the rear around when I’m fishing skinny and I have the 150 HPDI. It’s the heaviest you can put on the 18’ Redfisher.

o Having a couple of big batteries in the aft storage compartment, a full live well, and a tackle box under the driver's seat will contribute to squat.

o Skip from the Maverick Boat Company states “It’s a bit out of my realm, but the Maverick and Hewes hulls are quite different. The Hewes hull is "sleeker" and, on average, faster. It does not have as sharp an entry as the Maverick hull. The pad is also different which would help contribute to the squat. It’s more like a bass boat built for speed.

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